30th September – 5 October 2017
On a grey morning we said a fond farewell to Flumendosa. Despite the lack of toilet paper and the cramped, out-dated toilet block, the lack of hot water sinks and wifi we had developed a liking for the place. We had had an excellent pitch allowing great viewings of the comings, goings and other activities of fellow campers, the miracle of satellite TV reception, it was peaceful (with the TV off) and the beach was lovely. But we went chasing after greener grass and soon regretted it.
The site we wanted, Camping Cap Ferrato, was full. it had been full every time we rang over the previous 4 days. We hung around for a while in hope of an unexpected departure whilst a succession of other motorhomes turned up, turned round and drove off disappointed. Eventually we joined the exodus.
Only a few miles further north, Tiliguerta Camping Village was taking in the waifs and strays that had been rejected at Camping Cap Ferrato. We joined a long queue – our first since Vilanova in June – and opted for a comfort pitch where we would have running water and grey waste disposal. We paid for 5 nights to see us through to Sicily and set up amongst the trees. Initially we weren’t taken with it, possibly influenced by a nearby group of children playing a noisy game of hide and seek for an hour or so, but as is so often the case we settled in the next day.
As predicted our first day there was accompanied by the now obligatory thunderstorm and heavy rain so we cheered ourselves up with a meal at the popular campsite restaurant. Danny was keen to try the bottarga – a delicacy of salted, cured fish roe, typically grey mullet. He had bought a packet and wanted to know how it should taste – here in Sardinia it is often served with spaghetti. The version at the restaurant was bottarga and tomatoes with spaghetti and was very nice and fresh, tasting of the sea without being too fishy. Kate’s pizza was huge and satisfying. What wasn’t satisfying was the whopping ‘coperto’ charge of €5 which we had not experienced before – about 15% of the bill. This charge is per person simply for using the restaurant and is, to our minds, a diabolical liberty. Not happy and Danny made his displeasure felt. We calmed ourselves with a nice, reasonably priced Sardinian Grappa at the bar.
The nearest supermarket, at Costa Rei, was an easy 8-mile round trip on the bikes to stock up and prevent any need to return to the restaurant. Well worth it despite the exorbitant Italian island prices and at east we felt we had done a (very little) bit of exercise.
The beach at the site is covered in seagrass which they apparently don’t clear to protect it from erosion, so not the best beach we have visited by a long shot.
But with temperatures of 26C at this time of year who’s complaining! We spent a couple of pleasant mornings down there watching the rollers thunder in, and even braved the waves – nearly knocked us off our feet as well as trying to remove our swimwear. We later saw a couple of people recovering theirs from around their knees!
Generally we have had a very lazy time, doing cleaning and repair jobs round the van, reading and relaxing – taking Trevor’s advice to ‘calm down’.
Next step – Cagliari and the overnight ferry to Sicily.